View of the ocean (I think?) from the side of North Head, one of the extinct volcanos in Devonport.

Ash and Elisa have gone down to Napier to visit E’s family for the week, so left to my own devices, I hopped on the ferry to Devonport yesterday for a walk around. I’m really surprised that there aren’t more easily-accessible waterfront parks in this city, considering that it has two harbours and water can be seen from pretty much every vantage point. Or, rather, maybe there are lots of places to walk and run where you can be by the water (Im looking for something like the Martin Goodman Trail in Toronto), but I just haven’t found them yet.

The view from where I sat and ate my lunch.

The ferries here, while lacking the days of yore vibe of Toronto’s behemoths, totally put those old ladies to shame — the one I was on zoomed across the harbour at easily twice the speed I expected, and before long I was in Devonport waiting in a fish and chips shop for my lunch. Devonport’s main strip is quaint, very pretty shops to look in and palm trees swaying in the breeze. I took my lunch over by the waterside footpath and sat watching the sailboats for a while (and a very amusing Segway tour group). It was nice, but I wasn’t bowled over. After eating, I kept walking.

There are several extinct volcanos in Devonport, and while I didnt know which one was which, I headed for the one that was in the direction I was headed. It turned out to be North Head. I was thrilled to discover that I didnt have to walk up a roadway to get to the peak (having driven up Mt Eden, I wasnt aware that there are separate footpaths for pedestrians), and that I could wander my way up any number of paths. I was even more thrilled when the first path I walked down brought Rangitoto into view.

My first view of Rangitoto from North Head -- A little slice of paradise.

Rangitoto is the large, uninhabited, 600-year old volcanic island visable looming off of Auckland’s coast. There is something alluring and mysterious about it’s symmetrical peak, and Im eager to go over there one day soon. The ferry from Auckland takes only 25 minutes, and only costs $25 return, but being uninhabited, I dont want to go alone so Im really hoping I can sweet talk some of my new friends into going on a day trip there with me.

The path leading away from my new favourite spot.

I found the best spot on the side of the hill to sit and stare at Rangitoto, think about things and write in my journal. It was completely secluded from the families and groups of people, yet it also felt completely safe. All I could hear were birdsong, the waves crashing, and the occasional jet boat (which I could have done without). Love, love, love it.

Rangitoto as seen from my special little spot.

After walking to the peak, I walked back down towards Cheltenham Beach. One of the footpaths dropped me right out onto the beach which was great. I wasnt crazy about the beach itself though. Instead of sand, the beach was covered in shells (which was neat, I will admit) and seaweed. I know not all beaches can be like Karekare or Tawharanui, but I was a little disappointed it was so very different … especially after reading in Lonely Planet that it was a nice beach. Making the best of it, I took my shoes off to walk in the water, but it was so beige and murky that didnt last very long.

While I was walking along the water, a 60-ish Kiwi fellow, whose name I later learned was Nigel, came alongside and started chatting me up. I think that in general, Kiwis are more outgoing and trusting than I am. I find that when I encounter strangers, while out and about, my instinct is to be polite, but try and brush them off. When Elisa and I went to Tawharanui we met two guys in the parking spot that we later encountered on the ridge. I felt uncomfortable, but Elisa seemed completely at ease chatting with them like it was the most normal thing in the world. Which it should be! I hate feeling like I should question people’s motives and automatically think the worst. So, forcing myself to have a conversation with the guy, I walked with him for about 10 minutes while he chattered away about Devonport and the city. When it came to part ways, he asked if I wanted his phone number. I surprised myself by saying “no, it’s okay” instead of saying yes then avoiding him for the rest of my life (which is my old method of dealing with unwanted attention. Lame, but true).

After that, I walked back to the port, stopped a few more times to poke in shops, then took the ferry back to the city. All in all it was a lovely day, although next time I have to remember to bring sunscreen with me as the application I put on at home didnt last the whole day and I got a little pink around the edges. It wasnt a hot day, but it was sunny, and the sun here is something fierce. Nigel reckons it’s because the a lack of pollution means the ozone layer is thinner here. Not sure if that’s true, but it IS strong and I won’t be making that mistake again!

Gratuitous shot of Rangitoto.

More photos are here. I wasn’t overly thrilled with my photos from this day. Ive put a UV filter on the lens, but I dont think thats the problem. I was shooting with my 18-55mm lens, and tried a multiple of settings from Av to M to even P. To me, the photos lack oomph. There is a photo course offered at the Ponsonby Art Centre for around $300NZ. The next course starts in February, as long as Ive been bringing in money (which I should hope I would have been by then!) I’m going to sign up for it. Im tired of not loving my photos!

Possibly related posts:

1. Daytripping around Auckland (on $40 or less)
2. Auckland